Back to the Middle East. To walk the Jesus Trail!

Cannot Stay Away.

I said goodbye to Kuwait. Masalama, Sadiqi!

And hello to Budapest. Szia, Kedvesem!

And then the next day it's back in the Middle East. As-Salaam-Alaikum/Shalom!
I just cannot stay away.

I appreciate my time living there. I've learned a lot and started to wonder about even more. I'm okay with that, That is my definition of wisdom. The wise people I know, don't know all the answers but ask really good questions. 

Now I feel, and have, a connection to the Middle East and its culture. I may, even, be a little defensive of the region and its people, If need be.

Before Living in the Middle East.

Before moving to the gulf, I was only interested in visiting Egypt, check, and Israel, now... check. But, Middle East, as many have always known, you are much, much more than that! Thank you for your people, your natural beauty, your food and your culture. 

Israel.

What can I say about you. I don't know how another trip can compare with you. 

My trip to Israel was rich and meaningful. There is beauty there, especially in Bethlehem and Tel Aviv, but that is not why I went. Lots of people do. There were tourists there simply on a spend-the-day-at-the-beach holiday. But that's not why I went. I wanted to go to Israel and to walk where Jesus walked, hoping to understand his character more and to gain more insight when I read about his life and when I meditate of his words, meaning the Bible. And how can another trip compare with that. I saw the lake where Jesus walked on water and invited his disciple to do the same, the location where he proclaimed, 'Blessed are...' the peacemakers, the meek, those who hunger and thirst for righteousness, where he told his followers to love their enemies, to store up treasure in heaven, to let their God-light shine before men. Where he outsmarted the super religious and out loved the hypocrites. Where he made people whole and caused them to come back to life. 

In Israel.

First I went to Jerusalem, then to the West Bank to visit Bethlehem, Jericho and the baptismal site of Jesus. After that, we hiked from Nazareth, through Cana, to Capernaum. When our hike was complete, we stopped in Tiberias and Tel Aviv.

Jerusalem.

Inside a church built where Jesus
is thought to have been crucified.

Found this in the Muslim 
quarter of the old city. 
Nebraska Cornhusker football.

Visiting Ramallah, West Bank

The tour took us to Arafat's tomb.

Bethlehem, in the West Bank.

On the wall.

Driving to Jericho.

Jericho.

This mountain is thought to be where
Jesus was tempted, before his ministry.

Our visit was during Ramadan.

Many were fasting, including our tour guide.

We were served an amazing breakfast and lunch.

The Lord's prayer, in Arabic.

Our Arab Christian guide
to the churches. 

Where Jesus is thought to have been born.

Arriving in Nazareth

The city is now 100% Arab Muslims and Arab Christians.

We got to visit Nazareth Village. "The purpose of Nazareth Village is, to help pilgrims see the Nazareth Jesus knew and hear Jesus' words, especially the parables, with first-century ears."
It was very insightful.

A tomb, possibly like, Jesus was buried in.

Threshing grain. 
Separating the wheat from the chaff. 

The Jesus Trail.

Matthew tells us that Jesus moved from his hometown of Nazareth to Capernaum. In Capernaum, which is on the shore of the Sea of Galilee, is where much of his ministry took place. 

We walked from Nazareth to Capernaum. At first, it was just me, Stefanie and our trusty Jesus Trail books.  Later, we added the help of a GPS trail application. Even with that, we got lost a lot, but had a great time. We hiked about 7 miles a day in an average heat of 93 degrees Fahrenheit. 

In Nazareth.

Possibly where the angel told Mary
she was going to give birth to Jesus. 

Day 1

Cana, where Jesus turned water to wine.
We also passed through the birthplace of Jonah.

The probable size of one of the jars
of water that Jesus turned to wine.

The first night we stayed in a hostel
ran by a Muslim women, in Cana.
She made us dinner and breakfast.

Always looking ahead and reading
up on the places we were visiting.

Day 2.

The second night, we stayed at one
of the, few religious, Jewish Kibbutz. 

Day 3.
We climbed the Horns of Hittin and...

we visited a Druze temple. Where Moses'
father-N-law, Jethro, is suppose to be buried.

Day 4. 
We climbed Mt. Arbel...

for a great view of the Sea of Galilee. 

We saw a first century boat but we couldn't
take a picture of it. This is similar though.

A picture depicting Mary, of whom Jesus
cast out seven demons. It was located
at her, supposed, hometown.

The Sea of Galilee.

Day 5.

Morning reflecting, at the Sea of Galilee.

We visited the church built in one of the locations
where Jesus multiplied the fish and the loaves.

A statue to commemorate Jesus telling Peter

to, feed his sheep'. Near where Jesus may

have 'given him the keys of the kingdom'.

Possibly where Jesus gave the... 

'Great Commision'.

We climbed the Mt. of Beatitudes.
This is a church built there. 

We arrived at Capernaum.
Our final destination.

There is a church built over the remains
of, what is thought to be, Peter's house. 

The rest of the ruins of Capernaum.

Tel Aviv. Aka Joppa

After the hike, we visited Tiberias
and spent some time in Tel Aviv.
Abraham Hostels are located in
Jerusalem, Nazareth and Tel Aviv.
We stayed at each one.

Tel Aviv is where Peter went to see Simon the
Tanner and where Jonah set sail for Spain,
instead of Nineveh. 

The port of Joppa.

Fresh falafel. 

38 in 38.

Not bad for my 38th country in 38 years. I feel my many trips have all had purpose and been instruments of personal growth. Period.

You may not believe me, but, I am so full, I would be content not passing 40 countries before my 40th. It will be hard to do, but it is my sort of my upside-down individual goal.

It's Time to Say Goodbye. Masalama, Kuwait.

Saying Goodbye
You want to have closure when you leave a place. You want to be ready; not weeping because you aren't, or doubting you are making the right choice. On the other hand, you don't want to leave hating a place either; getting a bad taste in your mouth when you remember your time there. It is a precarious balance and much of it seems out of your control. I have definitely had my ups and downs in Kuwait, even within this last year.

Looking back to my first year, it was a time of focusing on being a new teacher, of mourning trees and sidewalks and a lot of time spent watching television. I found cultural things to do, I did some traveling and made a few friends, but I was much more home bound than I liked.

 

This year, in contrast, I haven't watched any television and I traveled more than ever before. I started this year determined to do things differently. I intentionally cultivated thanksgiving for Kuwait, and at the same time, I deliberately became more social and more busy. It was good at first, and needed, I think, but I did become weary and I think I missed out on more depth in a few relationships, because I was spread so thin. My life is a pendulum. I'm constantly in the process of swinging from one extreme to the other, occasionally reaching equilibrium. But isn't that just the way of things?



Thankful
I, fortunately, feel very confident about my decision to leave Kuwait, though it wasn't an easy one. I feel it is the right time to move on, but good things are happening here and kindred spirits are present.



 

 

I appreciate the different experiences I've had while being here. I am thankful for what I have learned in the classroom about student engagement and management. I have loved living among a population that speaks a different native tongue than me, practices a different religion than me and dresses differently than I do. And I'm amazed, again, that wherever I go I find like minded people from every tribe and nation who I can connect with.

Different
I am grateful to have lived in a Muslim country that bans pork and alcohol and enforces fasting during the daylight hours of Ramadan. Some may be taken aback by such a statement, but I am intrigued by the sociology of it all and I love trying to grasp cultural norms and religious mindsets. Islam is a major world religion. Roughly a fifth of our world identifies themselves with it. I'd go so far as to say it's improving my character to try to understand more about it and how it manifests in people's lives.



Ramadan
Ramadan will begin the day after my last Kuwaiti teaching day. I will be here for 3 days of it before I say goodbye to Kuwait. This year will be the first time I will be in Kuwait during it, because it has happened over summer break for the last few years. Ramadan is a Muslim holiday where the revelation of the Quran to Mohammad, peace be upon him, (that is a complimentary phrase used when you mention an Islamic prophet) is celebrated. The dates of the festival is based on the position of the crescent moon.

Ramadan is a time of fasting and feasting. Muslims fast for the entire month from food, drink and smoking, though only during daylight hours. The idea of no beverages when temperatures are daily in the triple digits, is startling. From what I understand, its purpose is similar to why I, as a Christian, occasionally, fast. It is meant to be sacrificial/ it clears time to pray and read the scriptures/ helps you hunger for spiritual things.

In the hours of darkness, feasting occurs. Long time foreign residents have commented that, many people in Kuwait just change their sleeping pattern during Ramadan but to be fair I doubt they sleep from 330A to 700P (the hours of daylight in Kuwait right now) so some restraint from eating is being shown. I do worry for the migrant workers, many of who do construction work, in the sun. I believe their working days are shortened to accommodate. Arab residence's working hours are shortened for the length of Ramadan. There are some exceptions to who must fast. Young children, the elderly, and pregnant and menstruating women are excused from fasting. Though I hear menstruating women 'should' make up those days. During this time, you can be thrown in jail (for a day) if you consume food or beverages in public while the sun is up. Restaurants are closed during the day and open late into the night.

Remembering Kuwait
Kuwait has honestly been a tough place for me in some arenas. At times I've felt overlooked and the need to second guess my actions and words, but I've learned a lot about human nature and myself. In contrast, I've realized how lucky I have been, in my life to have been loved so well.

At the same time, Kuwait has truthfully been a great place for me. A place where I found some kindred spirits and I thrived.

Kuwait will always be home to the first school I taught in. Kuwait will always be the place where I did the majority of my graduate classes, studied Arabic, and got more of an understanding of Middle Eastern culture than most. It will be the country I was in when I started running, got my first smartphone (monumental) and a place where I was in some great, fun groups. Kuwait will be what afforded me the money and locality to travel to beautiful places like Cambodia, Egypt and Ethiopia. Kuwait will also be the move that prompted me to start writing a blog.

 

 

  

Kuwait will likewise be where I spent very little time outside and a very dirty place that I lived. And I hope it will become one of my toughest teaching jobs, because it has not always been easy.

It's been dark at times, but there has been light, too. And light is what extinguishes darkness. It's not clear yet how I will look back at this time, but I feel as sure I was meant to be here, as I do that it's time to move on, for now at least.

*My time here is very inadequately represented by photos. Many people not pictured have made a lasting, positive, impression on me during my time in K-town, Kuwait. Noticeably absent are my wonderful Sunday, Tuesday, and Friday families. 

Qatar

Fun Facts.

I took one last, quick, trip to another gulf nation. We visited Doha, the capital of the "State of Qatar".  It's home to about 2 million people, less than half of whom are nationals. People I have talked to, have mixed opinions about Qatar. Some say it's not worth checking out. I really liked it and I think they may have the best souk in the Middle East. 

Qatar has made headlines for winning the 2022 World Cup bid. They have also fallen under scrutiny for their treatment of migrant workers.  

Qatar has a lot of large green parks, which is hard to do it such a hot place. The places we went were modern, clean and green.

Our experiences.

We ate breakfast on a man-made island, called The Pearl, that is home to over 12,000 residents. 

We went to a mall, the Villagio, designed to resemble Italy, complete with a gondola laden river running through the middle. 

We visited The Museum of Islamic Art which had art from different time periods, from all over the Islamic world. The art was insightful and interesting and I loved the museum's cafe view. The air conditioning was also highly appreciated by me and my two traveling companions. 

The souk we explored was tidy and contemporary, yet looked like a traditional souk. It was extensive, had cultural goods and many regional and international places to eat. We wandered through an animal section with parrots and other exotic birds.

An Iraqi restaurant, at the Waqif souk.

Expensive. 

It is hard to say because we did eat at hotels and the airport, but Qatar seemed even more pricey than Kuwait.  And that is saying a lot. It only makes sense though since most lists place it as the richest country in the world. 


Friends.

We were able to visit another teacher friend we made on a trip we took last month, to Ethiopia. 

 

Recommending Qatar.

Most of those people who say Qatar isn't worth seeing, when pressed, will admit they have never even been there. Well, I have been there. And I say country number 37, Qatar, is definitely worth a visit.