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Wednesday, April 5, 2017

6 Weeks Ago, in Guilin

Getting Lazier.
Man, I am getting lazier. My normal lazy is to pen my last adventure, the day night before the next travel experience commences. But this time, I didn't even have that in me. (I have since conquered another Chinese mountain!) Until now.

So, 6 weeks ago in Guilin...

Where is That?
Guilin is a popular tourist destination because of its beautiful karst topography. That's why I made it a priority to get there. It's located in Guangxi autonomous region(technically it's not a province), on the west bank of the Li River. 




BTW, the pandas are in Sichuan province and the Avatar mountains are in Hunan province. Shanghai and Hong Kong, which I have also visited, are not considered provinces but have special, separate titles. Shanghai is a municipality and Hong Kong is a special administrative region. But I digress, and have confused, even myself. 

Guangxi (the area Guilin is located in) is southwest of Fujian province, where I live. It took 2 hours on a plane to get there. 


Terraced Rice Fields.
I arrived at the hostel, as I planned, with just enough time to catch the last tour bus to the rice terrace. Ever since seeing pictures of terraced rice fields, I've anticipated seeing them, in person. But when I arrived, I was informed there were not anymore seats on the last bus. It was a mistake of the hostel, but a reality, nonetheless. I began to despair because I was in a bit of a time crunch, but I persisted and regrouped. I proceeded to grab a taxi to the public bus station to set off on the 2-hour journey. I had become somewhat of a pro at this during my past trips. 

After I sat on the bus for a few minutes the bus driver asked me, a little exasperated, where the person I was traveling with, was. I told the driver, I was alone and he cracked up. I was confused and a bit embarrassed that he was laughing at me, and then he explained (in slow, simple Chinese) that I had bought 2 tickets. And then I, the pro, was really embarrassed. And a little annoyed because there was no time for me to get my, equivalent to 7 US bucks, back.  

I thought I was being wise wearing my bulky, athletic shoes. It felt like a sacrifice because I didn't like how they looked. And aren't most sacrifices the better choice. In this case, my comfortable, breathable shoes were a very bad choice. It was quite cold and I get cold quite easily, especially my fingers and toes. Public buses are, evidently, not heated in this 'autonomous region'. So the comfortable shoes actually made my feet very uncomfortable. 

When I arrived, everything was easy. Lots of people come to photograph the fields so they have a ticket counter and viewing platforms and maps. Walking up all the stairs warmed me up a little, too. There was hardly any people there, which is a happy rarity in China. 




Mudslide.
After a few hours of hiking and admiring the sprawling fields, I hopped on the public bus back to Guilin. Even with buying the extra ticket, I saved money by taking the public bus. The tour bus was probably heated through. We didn't get far when we had to stop. There had been a mudslide and it blocked the only exit out of the rice terrace. Cars and buses alike had to be abandoned on the single lane road. We all got out and creeped up as close as we dared and stared up at the mountain. It was momentarily still, but could 'slide' onto us at any moment. After some phone calls, the driver communicated that another bus would pick us up on the other side. We then proceeded to cautiously walk up to the dangerous area and then run directly under where the disaster had occurred. It was so ridiculous and unsafe that I couldn't help but burst out laughing a couple times.  




I bought this handmade wall hanging from a lady at the terrace. 6 weeks later, it is laying there (I just took the photo) though, because I don't know how to hang a wall hanging. Maybe if I was living in Nebraska, I could figure that one out.

Obligatory Li River Cruise.
Everyone who travels to Guilin, takes the Guilin to Yangshuo cruise. It's overpriced and crowded, but the view is beautiful. If I went during warmer weather I would have stood on top the whole time. I met and talked with some other English speaking foreigners. Even though I have been traveling alone a lot, I always find nice people to have small encounters and chat with. 

Unfortunately, it was too cold and windy to stay up top on the large boat for more than 20 minutes at a time. So I had to go back to my, warm (apparently, they do heat tour boats) seat, on the inside of a long booth, next to a windowless wall. Every time I did this, I had to have 4 people get out to let me in. I was sitting with 9 non-English speaking, Chinese tourists. Awkward. They served us a... meal. I was not impressed. But I liked the wrapper enough to take a photo.

Typically people take a photo while holding up the 20 yuan (Chinese mula) bill, on this cruise. 



I wanted to do that, too. The part that looks the most like the picture on the bill, was when we were seated to eat. They announced, even in English, that if you want to take a picture with the bill to go up now. But I would have had to ask 4 people who were eating to get up so I could go out, so I decided to skip it. 




This photo I took after the cruise, is more similar. 

The cruise was also the way to get to my next hostel location.

Yangshuo.
Yangshuo is breathtaking with those mountains!


For the Birds.
The next bit is taken almost entirely from my Facebook post on the matter.

After getting settled in the hostel, I wandered around the smaller, picturesque town.

I was strolling on the bank of the river when this dejected, but also kind, looking guy hopef
ully looks at me. He was a curious sight. He sat on a chair, next to a stick with birds perched on the ends and a sign that said 3 Yuan.

Hmm... "3 Yuan?", I ask a Chinese man standing nearby, wondering what trick this guy and these birds could do. 


He looks at the same sign, and nods his agreement, "3 Yuan.". 

I reach for my wallet and pay the guy the money. (3 Yuan is equal to 43 American cents). Now the 15 or so people nearby take a step or two closer. Maybe they knew what I'd paid for, but I had no idea. I take a few steps back to see what cool trick I had just paid for. I was then beckoned closer. I had paid to get my picture taken with some birds. Anti-climatic, but okay. I asked the nodding guy to take my picture, he accepted and then wanted a picture, too- with him and me in it.

And then... this whole thing then explodes into utter chaos. The group size somehow doubled and everyone wanted just one more picture with the foreigner.
"Foreigner one more",
"one more",

"Thank you, foreigner, thank you."

This was definitely a highlight of my trip. There was lots of smiles and laughter.


Here is the kind guy whose eyes and birds got my attention.




The guy who confirmed my price question and started the photo frenzy.



Unfortunately, in the excitement I forgot to turn so the karst landscape, that frames the Li river, could also frame my photo.


And I don't think anyone else paid the bird guy for their photo!

Important Local Tradition

I didn't even know it at the time, but those cormorant birds are part of an important local tradition. 

"Cormorant fishing is a traditional fishing method in which fishermen use trained cormorants to fish in rivers. To control the birds, the fishermen tie a snare near the base of the bird's throat. This prevents the birds from swallowing larger fish, which are held in their throat, but the birds can swallow smaller fish. When a cormorant has caught a fish in its throat, the fisherman brings the bird back to the boat and has the bird spit the fish up. Though cormorant fishing once was a successful industry, its primary use today is to serve the tourism industry." - From Wikipedia


Countryside Biking?

A popular thing to do in Yangshuo is bike in the countryside. I never left a paved road and I had to maneuver through a lot of traffic at first, but I guess you could call that countryside. It was stunning.





Impressive "Impressions" Show
I didn't see the opening and closing ceremonies of the Beijing Olympics, but I guess it was impressive, because the same producer, produced this show. The outdoor show, showcases local culture using dance, songs and drama. The actors are mainly locals and the show was completely done on the Li river, in front of the karst mountains. 



Guilin lived up to and exceeded my expectation. 

There are so many beautiful places in this world. I hope they never stop surprising me. 





Wednesday, February 22, 2017

Bound for Burma

Traveling Alone Has its Perks. 
Traveling alone is a bit like living alone, where you can have everything just how you like it. When you travel alone you get to do and see everything you plan. You can follow an online travel review that piques your interest or leave in the wee hours of the night to save a buck. You can use that money you saved to afford something else that takes your fancy. I've had amazing adventure with other people, but I am surprised at how much I am enjoying this season of traveling alone.


The location of one such, interest piquing, online review.


I was interested in going to the double-named nation even before seeing pictures of Bagan, a land generously sprinkled with ancient temples. Travel bloggers' photos sealed the deal. Only later did I hear about the must-see area of Lake Inle.

In 1989, 'Burma' officially became Myanmar, though many people still refer to it by its former title. Many of the people in Myanmar are Burmese and speak Burmese. From what I understand the people in the nation use both titles and have all along. Myanmar just reopened to tourism in 2012 after being closed for 50 years.

Reading Biographies. 

I bought the Kindle version of Bound for Burma, a missionary biography, because I was bound for Burma. 

I was sitting at a skybar in Yangon, Myanmar waiting for the impressive golden Shwedagon to light up. As I relaxed, I read about the very first missionaries sent from America, who went to, none other than, Burma. The biography described the harrowing and adventurous journey of the Judson's. It was surreal that they first docked in the very same city I was in. The book described something glistening over the tops of the trees as they approached. Yes! it was the very same pagoda I was gazing at as I read; the same one I had visited earlier that day. Even then, it was over 400 feet tall and covered in pure gold.



The Shwedagon.

This solid brick structure was built between the 6th and 10th century, though it has been enlarged and renovated many times. It is completely covered with gold. Close to the top there is an umbrella crown, tipped with 5,448 diamonds and 2,317 rubies. At the very top is a diamond bud, tipped with a 76 carat diamond.





You have to take off your shoes before entering and walk barefoot around the massive structure and grounds, even up escalators which I am convinced is a safety violation (or should be). My pampered feet hurt in no time. Luckily the ground was mainly marble, so it stayed cool even in the scorching heat.

Balloons Over Bagan.
Bagan, home to over 2,200 temples built between the 12th and 13th century, has been popping up in travel photos and blogs over the last few years. Some of those showed hot air balloons, which I have wanted to take a ride in for some time. So... I did. 12 people rode in each balloon. We actually stayed quite close to the ground much of the time. We hovered over temples and rural areas. Because of cows in our ideal landing spot and due to the inclination of the wind that day, we got an extra long balloon ride. We almost needed to land in the water, which I found out balloons are made to and are able to do without any damage to itself or it's inhabitants.


How I spent some of that money I saved by traveling crazy hours.





Free to Explore.
Unexpectedly, I also learned how to ride and electric bike and it is one of the my favorite parts of the whole trip.
 Bagan's flat landscape and sparse traffic made it the perfect place to do so. Unbelievably, I had free range to explore almost all of the 2,200 temples. Most were small and only a few of the larger ones had any restrictions. I wound in and out of narrow dirt paths, and weaved my way between ancient temples, which were scattered, as far as the eye could see, in every direction. 



I love these e-bike pictures because I remember how much fun I was having when I took them.




There were a few temples large and safe enough to climb. They are now famous tourist viewing spots. They are popular for photographing Bagan's beautiful sunrises and sunsets. I did meet people from all over the world in Myanmar, but there really wasn't all that many tourist around, while I was there. One exception to this, was at these prime places to capture breathtaking photographs, namely the hot air balloons and these climbable temples. I don't like crowds so I had already resigned to the possibility that I may not get any great shots during the prime hours(sunrise and sunset). In the end, the few I captured, didn't turn out too bad.







The Countryside.

I took a comfortable, overnight bus to my third, and final locale, Lake Inle. We arrived at 4:30 AM and I was allowed to check-in early for no extra cost. They also gave me a hunormous breakfast that first day, for free. It was arguably the nicest, and it was the cheapest place I stayed. They also has bicycle rentals. So I roamed around the countryside the first day.





In the countryside, I saw village folk reaping their harvest with sickles and tilling their fields with oxen and even hand-pulled carts. It was peacefully, nostalgic of a simpler time and yet, it wasn't, because this is 2017. It reminded me of the American pioneer life I've read about in children's literature and idealized. But this... this is how these people actually live now. Such hard work. I don't know much about the economy of Myanmar, but it didn't seem right. In an attempt to assist, I bought some local goods from locals and when I returned home I provided a loan to some Burmese women, through Kiva. I was happy my lodging was locally and family owned because many of the larger accommodations are not.

The Lake.

On the second day, I took a boat tour of the Lake. They have many stops planned for tourists such as, lotus and silk fabric, boat, silver and cigar making, a local market, a breathtaking beautiful place with a ton of stupors, and a stop to visit the famous long-neck women. The 8 hour tour was ridiculously cheap, even with a fifty percent tip. In comparison, I'm too embarrassed to reveal how much I paid for the trending hot air balloon ride. The balloon companies were, unfortunately, foreign owned, too.











Myanmar or Burma, whatever you call it, is a beautiful place with beautiful people  It is also safe and relatively inexpensive to travel. I recommend, even to females traveling alone, visiting this remarkable place. 

Saturday, January 21, 2017

15 in '16 and Celebrating the New Year, Chinese Style.

 I traveled to 15 different countries during 2016. I was surprised when I counted them up since I've been focusing on China for the last half of the year.

According to the Lunar calendar, I have been to 16 countries in 2016. (January 28th is Chinese New Year day and today I am heading to 'The Land of the Golden Pagodas'.) 



My 15 of '16, with 2 to 3 words of reflection about each:


1.) America
family, job fair



2.) Kuwait
Middle East teacher


3.) Oman
adventure, wadis


4.) Egypt
pyramids, the Nile


5.) Thailand
food, pagodas


6.) Vietnam
Mekong, war museum


7.) Cambodia
Angkor, wats, smiles


8.) Bahrain
beauty, rest


9.) Ethiopia
unknown, exotic


10.) Qatar
modern, hot


11.) Hungary
second home


12.) Israel
Sea of Galilee


13.) China
new home


14.) Philippines
Chocolate Hills, aqua


15.) Australia
bridge, kangaroo, beaches


This was definitely my most traveled year. In 2017, I want to continue focusing on China, which I am finding, has much to offer in the way of natural beauty.

China Update


I love teaching first grade. It makes me tired sometimes, but it's fun and rewarding to watch my little sponges learn new things.

Most days for my hour lunch break, I go across the street where they have a typical Chinese canteen. I tend to stay away from the exotic seafood and cuts of meat I can't identify. So, my mostly vegetarian meals, costs me less than a dollar and give me much of my daily quota for veggies. Also it is a great time to have cultural discussions with my Chinese colleagues.




As a teacher, my learning is never over, but as a student of Mandarin, my learning is just beginning. I can formulate simple sentences of varying structures with my teacher, but I am easily discouraged when others cannot understand me or when they don't have the patience to listen to my slowness.

Here is a project to show my learning so far. (I am proud of it because I worked hard, but my pronunciation is really bad): 


I am leading a small group at a weekly English Corner. It is a relaxed time to talk with Chinese speakers. We meet at the first protestant church in China, which is now part of a shopping mall. Last week, we talked about New Year's resolutions. I shared a few of mine: more veggies, more exercise, more thanks giving, more reading the Word and less selfies. They found the last one surprising. Selfies are really big here.

 

The Year of the Chicken




Chinese New Year traditionally lasts 15 days and people go to the countryside to spend time with their extended family. Traveling within China is not recommended at this time, as nearly all 1.35 billion people, living in China, are also doing so.

I know the English translation of the Chinese Zodiac sign, is rooster, but this year is technically the female chicken or a hen. Most of my Chinese friends just say "it's the Year of the Chicken". There are 12 zodiac signs, one for each month. I am a snake because of when I was born, in October. I don't put stock in the beliefs of the Zodiac signs, but nonetheless, I find them interesting to learn about. 
There are chickens everywhere you look.






I don't believe firecrackers will scare away Nian, the name of a monster from Chinese legend, that my students are obsessed with hearing about. Nor do I care to burn fake money or give a red envelope in a bowl of rice as an offering to a kitchen 'god', but Chinese New Year is a lot of fun. 

One tradition is to give red envelopes with money. They are typically given to children, but sometimes to friends. You can put different denominations of money inside. For example, I took 6 envelopes and filled them like this:
envelope- 1 RMB (that's the Chinese money, worth about 18 cents)
envelope- 1 RMB
envelope- 5 RMB
envelope- 10 RMB
envelope- 20 RMB
envelope- 50 RMB
Everyone gets to pick one. You might get 18 cents or 7 bucks. I picked an envelope with 20 RMB, when I played (about 3 dollars).



To students we gave a red envelope with a gold chocolate coin in it. The gold coins are another tradition.



One more tradition is to hang red banners with good wishes on your door. I have one on my door that says 'Happiness'. I was instructed to hang it upside down to indicate happiness would be coming to my home. There are some for above the door and for the right and left of the door. You are supposed to hang them at the start of the new year. A student gave me a complete set along with some red envelopes and chocolate gold coins.



It is also traditional to give your home a deep cleaning (spring cleaning! Chinese New Year is also known as the Spring Festival), wear red clothes and to eat dumplings at midnight. 



I was happy to be invited to a dumpling making party this week. The dumpling wrappers are colored with spinach, carrots and purple cabbage. 











These are just a few things I learned about the holiday, this year. I am looking forward to a lantern festival that will happen in the coming weeks.

China, thank you for being so interesting.